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institutionallocksmithingforum.com The on-line resource forum for Institutional Locksmiths
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cpro user
Joined: 29 Aug 2008 Posts: 2
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Posted: Thu Sep 11, 2008 1:07 pm Post subject: A simple question, that's complicated |
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I work for a local school system, and am in the process of basically building our locksmith shop, procedures, and key control policies. With only two years out from finishing online classes, my biggest problem at this moment is coming in the line of what to buy where.
I have a random array of tools that I've always used for repairing locks that break, but in a situation where money is tight.. what would you consider 'must have' trade tools, and where are the best places to get them?
I do a good deal of our shopping online, but I worry about overpriced supplies, and less than reputable dealers as well.
At the moment we have 10 major buildings, 6 smaller facilities, and around 20 modular units used as classrooms while we wait for construction to begin on an 11th school. We range from 1970's era to current Key in knob, mortise, and rim exit devices.
I appreciate any information, and preferably a bucket or two, I seem to be in deep  |
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wiseguy Site Admin

Joined: 01 Sep 2005 Posts: 366 Location: Bethlehem, PA
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Posted: Wed Oct 01, 2008 3:35 pm Post subject: |
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I did an article for The Institutional Locksmith magazine a few issues back that covered some real specialty tools we made or purchased that we would not be without. Here are some others.
Definitely Hinge Doctor or Hinge Tweeker (I use Hinge Dr but both are about equally effective-more a matter of preference.)
A good set of digital dial calipers.
A good code machine or two. (I use Framon KX-1 for our regular types and HPC Blitz 1200CM for the rest. Also would like a Framon 2D. I personally own a Framon 2 and brought it in for a little while to the shop but no one could stand the tiny indicator...a 2D has digital readout.)
A good, fast duplicator. Even though 60% of the keys we cut here are better served by hand punches, the other 40% really justifies the expense.
A good code program. We use Instacode, but Blackhawk has a nice one and there are others out there.
A good key stamper like the new one from Ilco. We (our shop) revolutionized inhouse locksmithing by being the first to use the TMI Automark 2000, and still love it, but ILCO did make a number of improvements including a standardized size key nest and making the key nest capable of more keys, and simplifying access for repairs or adjustments.
JawCo of Reading, PA makes a set of allen keys and screwdriver tips (#1 Phillips and 1/4 slotted) that have a spring loaded shaft. They are, in my opinion, an absolute MUST and VERY reasonably priced.
A good set of ball-tipped handle headed (T-head) allen scredrivers covering all sizes, domestic and metric.
A good set of security head screwdrivers and an assortment of screws (machine and sheet metal) to match them is a must if you are anywhere where tampering can occur. We are and we have them and are grateful for them every day. At first we tried just one type, but if you only have one type innovative pranksters (or worse) will find or develop methods of attacking them. The assortment takes the fun out of it for them.
A good cylinder holding fixture for your particular cylinders or cores can be purchased or made from a block of plastic, and is an absolute MUST, especially if the cylinders or cores require flat slide capping. Sieveking Tools offers several. Major makes a tool for staking them, also, which can be made instead of purchased but theirs works so much better!
A small battery operated jigsaw (Much more controllable than what is commonly known as a Sawzall because that company introduced the large type so useful in many other trades) is very useful.
I would not do installs without a complete set of step bits.
A good battery operated vacuum capable of handling large bits of steel or wood comes in very handy.
And of course, a one inch thich kneeling cushion extends your usable working life. We spend far too much time on our knees, and they were not designed to take the pressure against hard surfaces. Similarly, a weight lifter type support belt can reduce the times later on that you will end up visiting a back doctor. These are definitly tools everyone should have and use, especially the workers young enough to think they don't need them.
Installation templates are a must.
Pro Lock has just introduced a "new" installation jig for standard cylindrical and bored locksets. It is reminiscent of the original red jig by Kwikset, but on steroids. Quick change fo sizes of bore, quick change of backsets and a replaceable surface that you will need if you use holds saws on metal doors, as well as a quick release bit make this undoubtedly the finest tool I have seen of its type, and it comes with various outlining marker chisels to handle various sizes and shapes of faceplate or strike plate.
If you have mortise locks, a good mortise jig is a must. Grumbacher used to be king here, but seems to have faded from the market, replaced by one from Major that works great. But buy lots of the 1 inch and 1-1/4 inch ones, because you cannot just run to the local hdwe store for a replacement bit if one breaks or gets dull.
A good cutoff saw for hte shop or van is a must for properly cutting exit deviecs to length.
A lightweight cordless circular saw is very useful. I use a Makita because it is so lightweight as to be totally controllable.
Paul Butler sells a 1.6 mm virtually unbreakable tube scope and light that allows tou to examine keyways for obstructions or read disc (wafer) locks. It is a bit pricey, but will pay for itself in saved time and effort and frustration in under a year. I believe he calls it a keyway scope.
GKS makes specialty hinge screws that are #14 screws with a #12 head to fit hinges (and strikes) nicely while allowintg you to increase the thread size to compensate for wear and tear.
Ben-Jim makes some under the door tools that not only work well on knobs and levers, but do not lend themselves to passer-by's creating their own version with a couple of wire coat hangers and some string like some other tools of hte type do.
The SUT-14 plug follower set is a must, IMHO, because you are always ready for almost any plug, and without it taking up the space of 4 tools.
We all have a penchant for dental scraping tools, but they can be purchased at a fraction of the cost at Harbor Freight and similar outlets and are the sam quality, as far as I can see.
4 in 1 screwdrivers are nice, but I wish someone made them in 0 and 00 and 1/8, 1/16.
I could not get through the day without a pack of shim stock in my tool kit.
Same with a small pocket level, preferably magnetically backed.
If you have narrow stile aluminum doors (and who does not?) the Dor-o-matic repair service kit is practically a money maker (It is, for commercial locksmiths.) because it contains exactly the parts that frequently wear out.
We also stock conversion kits to change functions on any exit devices we can obtain them for that we use.
These were what immediately came to mind, so I presume they must be the ones I found most useful. I am sure there are many more, and I did not mean to slight any manufacturer by ignoring their tools or mentioning their competitor's. I simply mention those I am most familiar with.
. _________________ Don O'Shall, CPL, CMIL, CMKS |
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cpro user
Joined: 29 Aug 2008 Posts: 2
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Posted: Mon Oct 06, 2008 1:52 pm Post subject: |
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I appreciate the reply!
I have several things listed, and variations of others. In all truth, I know much of what I need won't make it into the budget. It is nice however to be able to offer a solid list, and know I'll get better returns on what I am able to get, rather than guessing and hoping later. _________________ Corey Proffitt
Orange County Public Schools
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